Williams 1987 Fire! Information

Below you will find information specific to Williams 1987 Fire! and Williams machines of this era in general. Fire! was a System 11a generation game. Other games in this generation include Pinbot, Millionaire, F-14 Tomcat, and Big Guns. Big Guns was produced after Fire!

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Adding Fuses to System 11 games Fire! and before.

(The following two paragraphs were taken from http://www.marvin3m.com/sys11/index1.htm. Repairing Williams System 11 Pinball 1986 - 1990, Part One.)

Williams made a design error on games before and including Fire!. They forgot to add a fuse going from the transformer to the bridge rectifiers powering the +25 volts for the solenoids, and the +18 volts for the lamp matrix. If either of these bridges shorts, or capacitors that smooth the voltages fails, your game could start on fire (no joke!). This has happened, so it is recommended that you add fuses.

It is very easy to modify your game (Fire! and before) and install these fuses. Just buy two fuse blocks at Radio shack. Then find the two bridges mounted on the inside of the backbox. There should be a lead on the bridge that is labeled "AC". Remove the wire going to this lead, and connect it to one lead of a fuse block. Connect the other lead of the fuse block back to the bridge. Do this for both the +25 volt solenoid voltage bridge, and for the +18 volt lamp matrix bridge. Install 8 amp slow blow fuses. Note some bridges will have both "AC" leads labeled. You can connect the fuse to either of these two "AC" leads.

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My machine did not have the leads labeled. However, the last sentence above states, "You can connect the fuse to either of these two "AC" leads." This implies that two leads were possible to use. Since both bridge rectifiers had two of the leads using the same color, this is an indication that these are the correct leads.

To confirm this, I went to the Pinball Newsgroup (rec.games.pinball). The response stated to look for the lead on the bridge that is not oriented the same as the other three. They will look like:

-
|
| |

The lead that is not oriented the same (-) is the +DC output voltage. The lead diagonal to this is the DC negative lead. The other two are the AC leads.

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In the above picture, the two bridge rectifiers are near the bottom right of the backbox.

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Here is a close up of the two bridge rectifiers.

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The above picture shows the bridge rectifier. Note that the top right and bottom left both have blue wires (on the bottom bridge rectifier). These are the AC leads. I will add a fuse to the top right AC lead. The top bridge rectifier has two red leads. I will add a fuse to the top right AC lead as well. The four pictures below show close-ups of the bridge rectifiers. In these pictures, note how the top left lead is oriented parallel to the ground ( - ) and the other three leads are oriented perpendicular ( | ) to the ground.

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My wires are soldered to the leads. I will cut the wire. I used 16 gauge wire. Add wire to both ends, then use heat shrink to cover the cut. I will then attach female leads to both ends to attach to the fuse holder. My leads are not insulated. I may put a little electrical tape on the end as an added bit of safety.

I used #6 x 1/2" Hex Head metal screws to attach the fuse holders to the backbox. I used a 5/64" drill bit and drill to start the hole. I placed the fuses to the left of each bridge rectifier.

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Use an 8 Amp slow blow fuse as mentioned above.

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I cut two 16 gauge wires about 6 inches each. I placed a female connector at the end of each and crimped it. I am getting better at crimping but I made sure I did it correctly and the connector is tightly connected to the wire. I placed a piece of heat shrink on the wire. I cut the top right red wire of the top bridge rectifier. Stripped the wires and connected each of the two wires to the wire I cut. I created a hook with the wire at the end of each and then used electrical tape to connect. I then moved the heat shrink over the electrical tape and used a blow dryer to shrink it. I then used a small piece of electrical tape on each end.

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The picture above shows the two red wires attached to the cut ends of the wire on one side and to the fuse holder on the other.

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I repeated the process of adding the wire and connector to the rectifier below. I bought about 20 feet of 16 gauge wire from Home Depot. This happened to come in a larger wire that had a red 16 gauge wire and a black 16 gauge wire. I used the red wire to connect the top bridge rectifier. I used the black wire (close to blue) to connect the bottom bridge rectifier. The picture above and below show both fuses added.

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